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Creating Glueline Edges on the Tablesaw.
Yes, you can attain straight-from the-saw, ready to glue edge work with a minimum of fuss, and enjoy high quality results at no great expense.
Begin with the proper blade. I recommend a sharp, carbide tipped "miter/ planer" combination blade for stock 1- 1/4" thick or less, or a 24 tooth dedicated "rip" blade for thicker work.
Unplug the saw, install the blade, run it all the way up, check for square to top surface, return to working height, and plug it back in.
The most common way to true one edge is to secure the work to a carrier board of known straightedge quality that will bear (guide) against the rip fence; plywood is often good for this task. It's not important whether the carrier is above or below the work, unless there's some twist to the stock, then I would opt to secure the work on top of the board, which will then slide smoothly across the tabletop. Allow enough workpiece overhang on the blade side to produce a full, true start edge. Rip this side, remove from the carrier, and rip the second edge to desired width or best yield.
Another popular method is simply "average ripping" until a straight edge is attained. Somewhat more wasteful than the first method but still yielding two usable edges, it doesn't require anything more than an extension secured to the fence face to give a longer lateral bearing surface. It helps to knock off obvious high spots with a plane before ripping, giving quicker results. The technique simply is to flip the work edge for edge every pass through the saw; in a surprisingly short time, the task is done.
A variant on method one is to use a "Clamp'n Guide Tool" fence as the straight edge, but this requires cutting off one of two projecting adjustment tabs- a small sacrifice for this extra versatility. Also, the work must be within the reach of the clamp's length.
A variant on method two is to snap a chalk line down one side, cut with a jigsaw or bandsaw, and begin the procedure with that edge to the fence. This is useful if the edge is severely crooked.
Finally, there is the shaper cutter accessory, which can use planer blades to do stock up to 15/16" thick, but since it's use is beyond the scope of this article, I just wanted you to be aware of it.
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